Thursday, September 25, 2008

barbed wire over Dharamsala


This was a quick pen drawing of something that struck me as symbolic of the lives peope live in McCleod Ganj, Dharamsala. This was over a tin roof belonging to one of the many Tibetan stalls. It struck me how the drawing emerged looking quite reminescent of Chinese line drawings. The tragedy of Tibet and the many thousands of her stateless citizens setting out to forge their new lives, trapped forever from return by the iron policies of ruling China. We were lucky enough to see a concert performed by TIPA the first evening we arrived. The next morning we went to the institute so John could buy a dranyen, the Tibetan "guitar". At first we were turned away, but when we said we had come to buy a dranyen everyone was so welcoming, even though they spoke neither English nor Hindi, so even our friend KD could not assist. we were taken to a most talented young man, whom I won't name. He was tasked with finding a dranyen for John. It was amazing to see how musicians speak one language they can all understand. The young man gave a dranyen to John and showed him the basic notes. Of course this is in the Eastern system and a different scale. As John understood I saw the look I've seen so many times on any artist's face. the sudden sharpening of the gaze, the increase in concentration as one recognises a kindred spirit. They were so at ease, both involved in the music, something they both treasured more than anything else. We asked whether the young man would go home for the holidays which started that day. "No" he said, with a very sad smile, " my parents are in Tibet, this is the only place I can go." And the tragedy was brought home once more, families apart never to see each other again - a superbly talented young man whose very talent is crafted by his experience of tragedy. We bought a CD on which he sings, a beautiful voice. I wish I knew what lyrics he had written, but they are lost to me. Yes, barbed wire over Dharamsala is sadly here to stay

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